Mezes

No visit to Istanbul is complete without a visit to a meyhane, or taverna, to sample mezes. The tapas-style small plates, which come in both warm and cold varieties, are a product of the city's cultural melting pot: traditionally, it was the city's non-Muslim minorities (Greeks, Armenians, and Jews) who dined on mezes as they imbibed. Some mezes, such as stewed artichoke hearts or purslane in yogurt, are offered only when particular ingredients are in season, while others, like stuffed grape leaves or "Circassian chicken," are perennial favorites. Among the most popular mezes are those made with the ubiquitous eggplant, which is served fried, smoked, stuffed, and just about every other way it can be cooked.